Day 45: Tušila to Ljuta via Visocića


Nom nom nom, eating muesli on the hotel floor. We don’t have enough cash left to buy breakfast, but this ain’t so bad. Not much muesli left though, so it’s just little bowls today.

Down the stairs, pay the bill, out the door. Looks like rain, but it always looks like rain round here. Can’t let that stop us – we’ve had a few short days recently, and it’s time to cover some ground.

Road first, through the village, and then we’re off! into the fields. The long grass is dewy, and my socks are soaked. There was supposed to be a lake, but it’s just not here. Only soggy grass.

And, looking to your right, take a moment to soak in the magnificent view of Jelenjača jezero.

After the ‘lake,’ the fields stop being flat, and it’s all slippery up shady river beds. Already feel like I should have had more breakfast. When will I learn? I lag behind Kris, pausing for the view at every turn.

Pass some foragers. Consider supplementing breakfast with wild mushrooms, but risk of death too great. Almost at the top of the hill now anyway.

I think it might actually rain today.

Kris found me a hat. She’s always doing things like that.

At top! There’s a side trip up Visocića peak which I guess we’ll do. Pretty sure I read that it should only be a half hour round trip. I’m really feeling the meagre breakfast though. Even leaving my pack at the base, I just have no energy. It’s a battle.

Uurgh, another false peak?

It’s just a round, lumpy mountain, but the views are nice. Can see the tiara crest of neighbouring mountain, Puzim. Looks like a fun climb, but not in this weather.

View of cooler, slimmer, probably younger mountain (Puzim).

Finally down.

Side trip? More like side trap. That mountain took forever. There’s a signpost saying the mountain is an hour just to get up. Don’t know why we thought it would only be half an hour. Feel vindicated, but still hungry.

The weather keeps fluctuating – sprinkles, sunshine, sprinkles – but I think we’re too hungry to wait any longer for lunch. Decide to cook polenta to have with our salad wraps – this is a dire time for both of us and we need the energy.

Kris: “In this season: high-waisted pants, knee-high boots with little bows, and long jackets… Wait, did I do something wrong?”

Mmmmm, the polenta is so good and warm. Rain holds off just until we’re ready to go. Nice weather.

Walking round the cool looking mountain now. It’s all mashed up forestry roads – kind of a shame to leave the mountain this way. It’s not too steep, but it takes a while.

Kris also found me some glasses frames – “Call me Happy Plodder!”

Finally fall into Ljuta village and are immediately accosted by wild beast. Why do dogs like us so much?

(It’s definitely the smell.)

The tiny animal goes nuts, jumping on and off our lap. Saw that he came from the garden of an old couple and try and give the dog back to them. They shake their hands vigorously – “No!” This is clearly a well known dog.

He was also very licky. One of those dogs who aims straight for the face.

We want to go a little further before camping, so wander along the road for a while. Dog quickly gets bored of us which is a relief. It’s uphill walking, but it’s the perfect gradient. I could do this all day, but it’s getting late, so we decide to find a nice patch of grass to camp on. Damn, was just getting into my stride.

Not many campsites here, but I think we found an okay one. Don’t want to look any further into the forest because mines.

Tent, tea, clothesline, dinner, books, chocolate, sleep. Day over.

Kristen “Clothesline” Perry strikes again!


Bosnia and Herzegovina, Stage 34

Start and end points: Tušila to roadside near Ljuta (would have stayed at the Oko Treskavice household/B&B up the road in Budovići village, but ran out of cash)

Approximate distance: 18 km

Villages: Tušila – Ljuta – Budovići

Features:  Planinarksi dom Vrela (Vrela mountain lodge) – Restoran Visočica (across the road from Vrela) – Jelenjača jezero – Puzim cemetery – Visocića ( m) – Oko Treskavice household/B&B

3 thoughts on “Day 45: Tušila to Ljuta via Visocića

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