Kristen
Zminičko jezero was a pretty nice place to camp, but a little weedy and buzzing with insects. It was nice to reach after the hectic visit to Žabljak, but I certainly didn’t feel any burning desire to strip off and go for a swim in the shallow water. It’s quite lovely this morning though, now the insects are gone and the sun is shining.
Callum
Around 4 am the wind starts to ruffle our little green tent. He’s a strong tent, but it comes in long, heavy gusts that push the frame in one direction, hold it for a moment, and release.
Push, hold, release.
Kristen
We’ve had two fairly full on days – 32 km up Maglić, plus our 32 km slog in the rain yesterday, both with significant climbs. Today, although slightly shorter, continues the trend. It’s going to be long and challenging, with a big ascent up to Bobotov kuk, which, at 2523 m is (or was) “arguably the highest mountain in Montenegro.”
Callum
We were just leaving our lakeside camp when the local dog brigade made an appearance. There were three of them, sniffing around independently, but always staying in some sort of triangle, lead dog at the front. Their fur was matted by rain, and they looked a little bedraggled, but they were no hardy street dogs: their happy confidence and collared necks attested to that.
Kristen
We both wake up tired this morning. An alarm was enthusiastically set for 6:30 am, but it’s almost an hour later and we still haven’t moved. My eyes are not ready to be awake. Either is my body. I think even my cheeks are still asleep.
Callum
Sarajevo was a fascinating city. Ostensibly we were there to organise our border crossing to Montenegro (more on that later), but those bustling cobbled streets kept drawing me in.
Kristen
The sun hits the tent just right in the morning. Warm and strong after the cool night beside the lake, it eases me awake and begins to dry off the dew that accumulates each night on the tent. Mmm. Time for a tiny sleep-in, as the sun gets to work. I love it when things happen simultaneously. It’s like being at home with the washing machine going; despite the fact you’re not actually doing anything, the washing is still being done and thus I feel productive! I love that.
Callum
Part 1: Country Pancake
There are a few flies buzzing around my face, so I pull my hat down over my eyes and concentrate on enjoying the sun. I’m lying on the thin bench of a picnic table, using my pack as a pillow, but it’s kind of hard to balance. Not as relaxing as I’d like.
Kristen
I’m sat beside Štirinsko jezero on an old wooden bench. The sun is just beginning to settle into evening colours, the sky blues fading softly to periwinkle. A gentle breeze stirs the surface of the lake water and bobs the heads of the flowers, swaying like tiny, puffy pink bottle brushes. Green hills sleep placidly at the lakes edge like Labradors, the foothills of their paws and lumps of their soft heads dipping up and down before disappearing into the water. Speckled with little limestone noses. It’s such a peaceful campsite. The best way I can describe today is as a day of luxury – luxurious food, luxurious mountain, luxurious campsite.
Callum
I’m practically hopping with excitement as we’re ushered through the Simovića household to the terrace table that is our designated eating area. It’s breakfast, and, after last night’s incredible dinner, expectations are high.
bushnuts 