Tag Archives: Croatia

Day 32: Ljut to Marinovac plaža at Buško jezero

(Also to be known as the first day in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Callum’s birthday!)

Kristen

Waking up in Ljut, I see that it’s become super windy again. Good lord. I’ve never been in such a windy place in my life. To be honest, I’ve never really considered ‘wind’ to be an independent weather system, always just a byproduct or herald of another more important one, like rain or thunderstorms. But not here. Here, we have beautiful sunny days and wind like it’s the middle of a cyclone. Or rather, nearer the edges of a cyclone… Wherever the windiest bit is.

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Day 31: Sinj to Ljut

Callum

Today was like one of those comic black and white films – perhaps a Chaplin – where everything moves in fast forward, and instead of dialogue there’s just a clanky piano playing circus tunes. The cops chase the robber through a door, the robber chases the cops through another, then they’re all being chased by a bear… you get the idea.

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Day 29: Glavaš kuća to Peručko jezero

Callum

There are many famous winds. The Siberian High, the Southerly Buster, the Trade Winds, and the Brickfielder to name but a few. They tie the world together in great invisible knots, bringing rain, or dust, or desolation in their wake. Like the tectonic plates, or the ocean currents, they mark the invisible palm lines of the world, and, if you’re skilled enough, you can read them.

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Day 28: Brezovac dom to Glavaš kuća via Dinara

Kristen

Dinara is the highest mountain in Croatia. At only 1831 m, she’s even smaller than Kosiuszko, but quite majestic nonetheless. A huge limestone slab, lurching out from the valleys and small towns like a huge baleen whale mid-breach, barnacles crumbling off the sides. Today, we wake peacefully at Brezovac dom and head directly onto her forested slopes.

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Day 24: Crnopac sklonište to Gračac

Kristen

As forecast, it’s been a wet night up at Crnopac sklonište. In the morning, the rain finally peters out, leaving the forest floor shiny with wet leaves and the limestone a brilliant, glistening white. I’ve slept badly (again), so I rise slowly while Callum puts on tea. We read some more Howard’s End. Mmm.

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Day 23: Dušiće sklonište to Crnopac sklonište

Callum

It’s 5:15 pm. You’ve walked twenty-eight kilometres, and you feel every bit of it. There’s a dull, weary pain emanating upwards from the soles of your feet, and, alas, you’ve already eaten your chocolate for the day.

Even though you’d like nothing more than to lie down on the nearest patch of ground – and all ground is comfortable at this point – you’re at an intersection and you have a decision to make. To your right is a five kilometre ascent to a mountain shelter of unknown quality. From there you could summit the mountain of Crnopac tomorrow, before heading back down to the town of Gračac. This is the plan, but there’s thunderstorms forecast (it’s already raining) and Crnopac is too dangerous to climb in bad weather. So instead you could turn left for a five kilometre descent straight into Gračac and the bed that’s waiting for you there.

What do you do?

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